The Lure of Key West... Can You Resist It?
Ernest Hemingway, Harry Truman and Jimmy Buffett...an unlikely trio under most circumstances, but the author, president and singer all shared a common bond -- an inability to resist the lure of a small island 90 miles north of Cuba. It's little wonder that Key West has been a haven for the famous -- and for the non-famous, too.
Everyone seems to enjoy the relaxed pace, the storybook architecture, the often carnival-like street life and the end-of-the-world feel...after all, it is the last in a chain of islands (or "keys" as they are called) 150 miles from the mainland of Florida. The natural surroundings are just as pleasant: Hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine and frangipani give the island a tropical feel and smell.
The
heart of Key West is the historic Old Town area, which runs from
White Street west to the waterfront.
The heart of Key West is the historic Old Town area, which runs from White Street west to the waterfront. In the early 19th century, wharves, warehouses, chandleries, ship-repair facilities, and the U.S. Customs House sprang up around the deep harbor to accommodate large vessels -- both commercial ships and those of the U.S. navy. The lavish Victorian houses the town's wealthy merchants and sea captains built, along with the dwellings of famous writers, artists, and politicians who've come to Key West over the past 175 years, are among the area's approximately 3,000 historic structures. Old Town also has the city's finest restaurants and hotels, lively street life, and popular nightspots. It's easy to get around by renting a bicycle or moped, taking a shuttle or taxi and many locals walk everywhere they go-parking is scarce (or costly) and the wise tourist will leave his car behind, parked at the guest house or Hotel.
There are many charter boats to take you off the island for snorkeling, diving or fishing...getting "on" the water should be an integral part of any visit to Key West. There are sunset sails for the timid or romantic or hydrofoils that will speed you to Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas for a day of adventure. If you're a landlubber, then spend your day walking around Old Town and soak up the mix of flavors, including hints of Cuba and Old Florida. But no matter how you spend your time, expect to be part of a crowd because Key West draws droves of people.
Next on the busy Key West calendar, is the APBA (American Power Boat Association)Offshore World Championships in late November (see Key West Special Events/November). The deafening roar of 750-horsepower engines will propel beautiful, sleek and super fast powerboats across Key West's aquamarine waters at this event. Thousands of viewers line the shores to watch this breathtaking extreme sport in action, which is in two parts. Vendors will be selling racing gear, souvenirs and lots of great Key West food. Live entertainment, music and dancing add to the week-long extravaganza and boats will be on display before the races in Truman Annex.
You can bet that all the racer's and their sponsors will enjoy Key West's infamously rowdy nightlife! Most of the action is, for the most part, centered around the many bars and nightclubs that line Duval Street, the city's main drag in Old Town. Indeed, many a young sailor -- or middle-aged housewife from Topeka, for that matter -- has awakened with a pounding head, bloodshot eyes, and a certain taste in the mouth, all classic symptoms of an evening spent perfecting the "Duval Crawl." Think about it for a moment, if you will...
For those with more cultured tastes, there's the Tennessee Williams Fine Arts Center, Waterfront Theater and the Red Barn Theater, all of which offer a variety of music concerts, plays and other performing arts events.The San Carlos Institute, now restored, is another spectacular venue frequently used for showing art films or other "cultured" events!
Many people simply come to Key West for great seafood! Talented young chefs have settled in Key West, contributing to the area's image as one of the nation's points of culinary interest...of course, live music and late night carousing do not a culinary paradise make, but the island's tropical climate and proximity to Cuba have both played unmistakable roles in the formation of Key West cuisine. Florida citrus, fresh seafood, and tropical fruits figure prominently on local menus, as do black beans, yucca, and other Cuban and Caribbean staples. Also, the many Cuban-style cafes are both affordable alternatives and antidotes to the slew of mediocre "bar food" emporiums that line Duval Street. However, be sure to visit one of these little cafes, even if it's just to take a break and have a cup of oh-so-strong Cuban coffee...but the list of really good restaurants (and not all expensive) is long and should be explored!
Seafood is the order of the day in Florida, and Key West is certainly no exception. Florida lobster, stone crab, shrimp, fish -- you name it: if it swims, crawls, or grows in the ocean, it's on a menu somewhere in town...and you can be assured it's all fresh! Fresh seafood is a staple for every restaurant in town. Crab and lobster season usually runs from August to March, but emergency harvesting restrictions and bad weather can affect availability. Whatever you desire, if your first choice is not available, the best advice is to get whatever else is fresh that day. And if you are from a part of the world where deep-fried seafood is the norm, try your fresh catch broiled or grilled for a change. You just might be surprised at how much of the flavor you've been missing.
So much has been made of key lime pie that it seems few people know the real McCoy from the chain restaurant version anymore. Authentic key lime pie is made from authentic key limes (about the size of a large egg with a remarkably tart pulp), and the traditional version of the pie is easy to identify: It has a yellow (not green!) custard in a graham-cracker crust and tastes like nothing else. Some restaurants close at certain times of the year (they need a vacation, too) but if your favorite place happens to be closed...simply explore. In Key West, another restaurant -- or bar -- is always just around the corner.
When you've enjoyed a day on the water,
dined in an exquisite outdoor restaurant and danced the night away...the
lure of your tropical bed and breakfast or guesthouse should be strong!
There are so many guesthouses now, there's one for everyone that will
suit your tastes to a "T." It's worth taking your time and
doing a little research to find the perfect tropical haven...9" antique
pine floors with a large four poster bed beside a wide open window that
looks on to a pool with a waterfall...very thin mosquito netting is
draped carefully above your bed and banana trees sway outside the other
window...a large porch waits ourtside your room on the second floor
and you make friends with the couple next door in no time at all. Rooms
in a guest house are no more expensive than the hotels and offer so
much more of a Key West experience. You'll understand when you get in
bed the very first night and see the moon and stars and feel the island
breeze caress you to sleep...ahhhhhhh...goodnight! 
