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Old January-15th,2008, 11:39 AM
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It’s a New Year, and with the New Year comes the mention of New Restaurants!

It’s a New Year, and with the New Year comes the mention of New Restaurants!
By Margit Bisztray, Food Critic

What’s new on the Emerald Coast? Restaurant Fire (on Clayton Lane in Grayton Beach), which is a little bit difficult to find (it’s next to Frank’s Cash & Carry), but hopefully if I tell you it’s my favorite new place I’ve tried in a long time it will inspire you to hunt it down. While you’re there, try the soup. Mine was an amazing parsnip-nutmeg–––always a sign a restaurant knows what it’s doing. I’m going back for Riesling poached oysters, for entrees I’m seeing on the menu now, like butternut squash and poached shrimp fettucine, roasted pheasant breast with walnut scented shoestring potatoes and date compote–––yummy!–––and a duck pork roulade with fig gastrique. I’m also definitely trying brunch, with wild mushroom omelet, shirred eggs or a buffalo burger, and all prices including bottomless Champagne! The layout is a little weird, but the décor is cozy and the food truly fantastic. No wonder: the owners are from New Orleans (it’s a post-Katrina evacuation thing, so give em’ your support!)

Speaking of New Orleans, pretty much my new favorite drinking concept EVER is the one I tried there recently at W.I.N.O (Wine Institute of New Orleans). They offer some 50 wines in special nitrogen-compressed dispensers, and you can try them in portions of 1-5 ounces. You pay accordingly, but retail price. I was there for over two hours and only spent about $30 (not including the bottles I bought to take home in the retail section in back, based on my favorite “tastings”). It’s a sleek hangout in the Financial District, and I’m cheering for them to succeed, so go say cheers next time you’re in town.

Key West has its Ambrosia back! Yes, Ambrosia sushi restaurant (my favorite!) has moved to its new BEAUTIFUL location in the Santa Maria on Simonton–––across from where the Atlantic Shores used to stand (sigh). The room is unlike anything else in Key West: very modern, with stainless steel, icy blues against dark wood, and a stunning waterfall “wall” at the entryway. What’s also great is there’s a sake bar on one end of the room, opposite the sushi bar. They’ll soon be offering sake “flights” and sake pairings with meals, which is a great way to expand one’s tasting of this interesting beverage. I recommend Masa’s “omakase” or “chef’s choice” selection of the day: he’s the one who knows what’s absolutely at peak freshness.

Happy New Year, Happy New Dining!

NOTE: Margit Bisztray has been reviewing restaurants and writing about food for ten years. She has published three editions of The Complete Key West Dining Guide, and her work has appeared in such publications as Vogue, Gourmet, Islands and Metropolitan Home. To read more restaurant reviews, log your own personal opinions, rate your favorite restaurants and watch streaming video archives of these shows and other reviews, visit Margit's Top 5.
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